Laminate Installation

LAMINATE FLOORING

PLEASE READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY, BEFORE YOU BEGIN INSTALLATION. IMPROPER INSTALLATION WILL VOID WARRANTY.

  • Always check panels for defects such as chips and color sheen differences in daylight before and during installation. Defective panels should never be used. Also check that the channel is clean and free of debris.
  • The maximum room/run size is 12 x 12 meters (40 x 40 feet).
  • For best color match when using panels from two or more packages, check to be sure all the patters are the same. Be sure to use laminate out of more than one box.
  • Your laminate flooring MUST be allowed to acclimate to the environment of the installation area. Leave the closed packages in a horizontal position in the room for 48 hours prior to installation. Preferable temperature should be approximately 17-23 °C (62-73 °F) with a relative humidity of 45-60 percent. Humidity should never be allowed to drop below 30% as this may cause gapping.
  • If existing baseboard moldings are difficult to remove, they may be left in place. Quarter round molding is all that is needed to cover the expansion space between flooring and baseboard.

SUGGESTED TOOLS AND ACCESSORIES:

Foam underlay, pressure sensitive polypropylene adhesive tape such as Tuck Tape or equivalent, spacers, saw, hammer, utility knife, pencil, tape measure, ruler.

If installing over a crawlspace or on a concrete floor, you must also install a 4mil (or thicker) polyethylene vapor barrier under your foam underlay or use a convenient 2 in 1 foam underlay that has a vapor barrier built in. When installing 2 in 1 foam underlay, butt seams and then completely seal seams using Tuck Tape.

SUBFLOOR:

  • The underfloor or subfloor must be thoroughly even, dry, clean and solid. Carpet staples or glue residue must be removed and floor must be clean to ensure proper installation.
  • To check for evenness, hammer a nail into the center of the floor. Tie a string to the nail and push the knot against the floor. Pull the string tight to the farthest corner of the room and examine the floor at eye level for any gaps between the string and floor. Move the string around the perimeter of the room noting any gaps larger than 4.8mm (3/16”). Any floor unevenness of more than 4.8mm (3/16”) per 3 metre (10 ft) must be sanded down or filled in with an appropriate filler.
  • Floors must be carefully checked for moisture problems. Any moisture needs to be solved before installation. New concrete needs to cure for at least 60 days before installation.
  • THIS PRODUCT IS NOT SUITABLE FOR DAMP ROOMS SUCH AS BATHROOMS, SAUNAS, ROOMS WITH DAMP CONCRETE, ROOMS WITH FLOOR DRAINS OR ROOMS THAT COULD POTENTIALLY FLOOD.

GENERAL INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS:

  1. For installation on concrete floors or any floors over a crawl space, a vapor barrier MUST be laid down first. Use 4 mil poly. Run the poly 5cm (2”) up walls and overlap seams 45cm (18”). Tape seams.
  2. All flooring installations require foam underlay. Run the foam underlay in the same direction as the laminate panels. Underlay should be butted side by side with no overlap. Tape seams together.
  3. You will need to remove the tongue, on the long side of the panels that face the wall, from the appropriate amount of panels for your first row. This is to ensure that the decorative surface of the laminate is well under the finished trim when installed. Use a utility knife to score through the tongue several times until it easily snaps off.
  4. Start in a corner by placing the first panel with its trimmed side facing the wall. Use spacers along each wall to maintain an expansion space of 8-12mm (5/16” – 3/8”) between the wall and the flooring.
  5. REMEMBER THAT THIS PRODUCT IS PRIMARILY WOOD AND NEEDS ROOM TO EXPAND AND CONTRACT. AT NO POINT SHOULD YOU ATTACH THE FLOOR TO ANY SURFACE.
  6. To attach your second panel, lower and lock the end tongue of the second panel into the end groove of the first panel. Line up edges carefully. The panels should be flat to the floor.
  7. Continue connecting the first row until you reach the last full panel. Fit the last panel by rotating the panel 180° with the pattern side upward, place beside row, mark and then saw off excess. Attach as described above.
  8. When using a handsaw, cut on the decorative surface. If you are using a jig or circular saw, cut with the decorative side down to avoid chipping.
  9. Begin the next row with the cut piece from the previous row to stagger the pattern. Pieces should be a minimum of 20cm (8”) long and joint offset should be at least 40cm (16”).
  10. To start your second row, tilt and push the side tongue of the panel into the side groove of the very first panel at about 30°. Make sure the edges are lined up. Lower panel to the floor, locking the end tongue into the end groove of the first panel. Continue laying remaining panels in this manner.
  11. To fit the last row, lay a panel on top of the previous row. With the tongue to the wall, lay another panel upside down on the one to be measured and use it as a ruler. Don’t forget to allow room for spacers. Cut the panel and attach into position.
  12. Door frames and heating vents also require expansion room. First cut the panel to the correct length. Then place the cut panel next to its actual position and use a ruler to measure the areas to be cut out and mark them. Cut out the marked points allowing the necessary expansion distance on each side.
  13. You can trim door frames by turning a panel upside down and using a handsaw to cut away the necessary height so that panels slide easily under the frames.